Nina can buy everything. In principle, the simplest milling bench will cost approximately 17,000 – 21,000 rubles (“Caliber” and others). Although cheap models may have low performance (for example, a commutator-type engine that requires regular maintenance), they do not depend on the potential of industrial ownership.

It’s no secret that some options are not available, and others are about to be deprived of unclaimed ones, otherwise you end up having to pay for them. Assembling a small milling bench for wood with your own hands under the power of moisture is not a bad decision, especially since its design is not so foldable that you won’t get caught with the work on your own. If only I could use the chair, please use the chair. How to do everything correctly and protect it is the topic of this article-instruction.

All the benefits of making with your own hands lie in the fact that the choice of sizes, materials, type and other nuances of selection are at the discretion of the master. Even if the ruler has a lot of money, he won’t be able to buy anything.

Coming out of this, everything is pointed lower than the chair and should be seen only as recommendations, obviously. There is no such standard on self-made milling machines and cannot be. Golovna, so that you can allow those tasks to be fulfilled, “under” as they are going to be.

Elektrodvigun

The usefulness of the milling bench is determined according to a number of criteria.

Engine type

  • Asynchronous - does not require maintenance, allows you to work with larger cutters. As a minus, there is the noise that is created, but how important it is in the process of woodworking, the woodworker must do it himself.
  • Collective is a cheaper option. Not enough - in step-by-step vibrated brushes. The wear depends on the intensity of the work of the milling bench.

Pushing

  • < 0,5 кВт. Станки, оснащенные такими двигателями, подходят для поверхностной обработки заготовок. Как вариант, использование кромочных фрез для выборки пазов, но только если речь идет о сравнительно мягких породах дерева и небольших режущих инструментах.
  • Up to 1.2 kW. A universal model of a milling bench. On such an installation it is possible to work with clay chippings of wood. As a rule, for everyday stagnation this tension is completely sufficient.
  • Up to 2 kW In fact, we are talking about a professional workbench that allows you to work with all types of cutters and materials of different thicknesses. A cream of wood that can be milled for processing workpieces made of plastics and other soft metals. Most often - aluminum.

Number of wraps

The instructions here are simple. The greater the characteristic, the purer the piece of wood will be. Ale is not all. A high-quality engine is not afraid of wood defects such as knots. The milling cutters can pass through these plots without problems.

life

The most commonly chosen engine is 220/50. There are no special problems with their installations and connections. Foldable with three-phase models. It’s important to pull the edge line to attach the milling workbench – then evaluate it. If, for example, 3 f/380 is already installed in the garage, and the cable is laid out with a supply of spare parts, then the asynchronous “triphase” is better. Smooth start and tension, increased tension - such a tool allows you to work practically with all the pieces of wood and complete any operations.

Crafting table

These linear parameters are selected according to the dimensions of the wood pieces that will be processed. The dimensions of the table itself are of no importance. It’s better because there is enough space in your home workshop where you can install a milling bench.

Workbench frame

It is not just meaningful, but also conveys significant dynamic implications. The advantage of a workbench compared to a manual router is that the tool is in a fixed position, and the wood must be constantly moved during the cutting process. From the point of view of practicality, it is ineffective to use wood for a camp. It is gradually drying out, becoming covered in cracks, and its geometry is being destroyed. Such a milestone happens regularly. A metal axle is the best option. Pipe (square or straight-cut) with a profile or a massive coil. Why?

First of all, you can do without welding, using bolted connections. This assembled/disassembled model is very handy, since you will need to periodically change the work area or take it away for an hour of repairs at the location.

On the other hand, since it is already decided to select a milling workbench, then it is clear that it is for a one-time use. Metal supports can be adjusted. Therefore, the horizontal position of the table when installed in any location or position behind it, because the substrate (ground) causes a loud noise (which most often occurs).

Stilnytsia

And the metal axle here is not the best solution. It’s expensive, and the mileage can be worked hard. You can’t do without a cooking apparatus.

What are you going to do?

  • Planed boards.
  • Plates (chipboard, MDF, OSV).
  • Bagatosharova plywood.

It is necessary to focus on the sufficient importance of the design and the specifics of the subsequent operation of the milling bench. The people from whom are selected, their work, and materials.

The top of the table is smooth. Otherwise, it would be impossible to precisely mill the material. It is immediately necessary to turn off the possibility of splinters appearing, otherwise the constant movement of the workpieces will cause the machine to collapse. As a result, the quality of processing is spoiled due to the distortions of the images on the table.

Ideal surface evenness can be ensured in a number of ways:

  • lamination (coated with hard plastic);
  • upholstery with sheet metal;
  • Precisely preparing planed boards.

On thematic sites there are recommendations for choosing a kitchen cabinet. An excellent option, both for convenience and for reliability, as if there is more than one food - where should I take it? Such spare parts are not lying around on the street. These materials, as indicated by the author, are ideally suited for the milling bench and are pressurized with a strong motor.

The procedure for selecting a milling bench

Golovne pitanya – roztashuvannya engine. Optimal - lower, under the table. On this shaft, straightened vertically, another cutter is installed. For this purpose, a mounting plate with a round visor is attached to the turning side of the frame. The engine is fixed to it. Otherwise, the transmission (belt) is changed, but it is difficult to fold the structure.

Another option is with horizontal engine mounting. Is it possible that such a milling workbench will be handy?

Dodatkovo

It is necessary to think over the circuit for switching on the versat and the elements of the defense. What is recommended in general:

  • emergency button;
  • saw saw system;
  • Illumination of the work zone:
  • gardening screen.

During the milling process, there may be pressure points. With this help, for example, a small panel is attached to the back, which serves as a guide. This is useful if you have to cut small (or thin) pieces of wood. For example, like this.

Stationary (welded to the frame) clamps are not the best solution. It is much more difficult to handle important devices that are difficult to reinstall, depending on the specifics of milling.

Tim, who is interested in making various artistic pieces from wood, may be pleased to make a milling workbench based on spruce/drill. Mounting them on a tripod is difficult.

Or so. For selecting grooves and chamfering - a perfect solution.

The tool will be squeezed, like the drill, against the chuck. However, the scope of such mini-versatility is already limited. I for the tension of the engine, and for the choice of cutters. There are also models based on the “grinder”.

There is enough information to make a simple model of a milling bench with your own hands. Folding more folding modifications - for example, with adjustable play - will require advanced knowledge of folding. Practice shows that in order to achieve success in a task with which one has to face oneself in everyday life, all one’s abilities are rarely defeated. In fact, even though he is already professional, the author does not care to take a closer look at the peculiarities of his design in this article.

With the appearance of traces in the sample of the village, it will not be important to rework, refine, modify. You can assemble various devices for robots with self-propelled cutters with your own hands. But all this is different from those that require a substantive examination.

  1. Milling cutter from drill
  2. Stationary workbench

It’s easy to create a milling workbench for your home workshop. It is also necessary to ensure that all craftsmen (professional, academic and self-made) employ a number of techniques for processing wood through the positions of the wooden blank before cutting tools. A flower that is becoming obstructed may be indestructible or suffer from ongoing ruins. Therefore, self-made milling cutters are prepared from various cutting electric tools.

Milling cutter from drill

This is the simplest wood milling tool that you can make with your own hands. Every everyday shop has milling cutters made on the basis of a standard drill: their design includes a shank that exactly fits the dimensions of the internal diameter.

When working with such a manual router, you must carefully secure the workpiece. It’s not your fault to crumble and crash. Most often I will prepare and seal clamps . The more clamps you use, the less the workpiece is secured.. Sometimes vikoryst and primary bream. They are concerned about the need to trim the end.

The problem with installing a self-propelled milling cutter from a drill is the difficulty of maintaining the required size of the cut. The smallest three-tonne in the hands of the star is now usi zusillya.

It is necessary to create a device for the milling bench from the drill, which will hold the electric tool in its position.

If you need to make a groove in a piece of wood:

  1. A cutter is selected and installed, which looks similar to a drill. Features - the working edges are rotated in the front part (as in the drill) and in the later position.
  2. Getting ready to squeeze in nicely.
  3. Clippers are attached to the drill, attached to the edges of chipboard, plywood or boards. By pressing against the workpiece, you can roll the self-cutting router along the line, indicating the position of the future groove.

In the photo of the testimony, a drill is made from a wooden boundary.

Stationary workbench

What is needed for preparation:

  • A milling cutter - a drill, a grinder, a number of attachments that look like a small electric motor and a spindle for a woodworking machine.
  • Stilnytsia.
  • Stanina. It is necessary to blame both mitsnoy and nadіynoy: this is a non-successful part of the workbench on which the frame and the milling cutter are attached.

The most flexible option is to prepare a workbench from an adjacent electric motor and spindle. It's easier to gain proficiency with ready-made electrical tools.

The milling bench performs cutting on a vertical or horizontal surface, depending on the cutting method chosen, it is necessary to determine the installation position of the working body.

The cutter of the self-finishing bench from the grinder is turned vertically, cutting is carried out at a horizontal plane.

The bed can be of any design (the armchair is not required). It is better to make it with a frame made from metal rolls. Bolt a sheet of chipboard onto it. Then:

  1. This means that the sprockets come from the working shaft.
  2. Create an opening with a diameter larger than the diameter of the shaft.
  3. Attach the angle grinder with two clamps and fasten it to the frame with screws and nuts.

The head of the screws is pushed out from the side of the surface of the table to prevent the workpiece from collapsing. The fastening nuts are on the side of the angle grinder. Screw heads set the level.

For a self-made machine, you need milling cutters to ensure that the cutting discs fit on the shaft. The stinks do not clean the grooves under the keys. The wheels, like the discs, are secured to the grinder with a clamping nut. Because there is a need to drill the cutters like a key, then break the adapter:

  • One day there may be a final connection. This side is screwed onto the angle grinder shaft behind the clamp nut seating area.
  • The other end is prepared for mounting the cutter on the key. For fastening, use a screw and washer to tighten (they press the working tool to the adapter), then at the end, create a threaded hole under the diameter of the bolt that is to be screwed.

According to the frame, they are installed directly, which collapses the workpiece. Most often, plywood and chipboard scraps are used: they can be used to create straight different configurations, which allows you to mill the workpiece in different straight lines. Directly - important parts that are attached to the frame with screws.

The use of a stationary milling cutter means the accuracy of processes that vary regardless of the number of revolutions. The strength of the structure of the vehicle is not limited to the use of hand tools. I want to make it easier to earn money on my own.

Sharpening a cutter in this way is not at all difficult, and unless you remove it, you won’t be able to avoid even hot spots and high sharpness. Without a doubt, a spiral cutter made of carbide is far superior to its self-made counterpart. But for the price, the drill is, of course, maybe a hundred times cheaper, the lower cutter is a hanging cutter. So, since you are dominated by the not-so-high intensity of your drills, the Fahians have already figured out how to sharpen the drill simply and smoothly.

First of all, we must understand what we can earn and what we can lose as a result. That’s why the retin of the drills in the eyes is woven. The cutting part of the drill is cut in the shape of a cylinder with two spiral grooves. During the drilling process, chips fall from the opening that becomes chipped. The skin groove has a cutting edge at the protrusion. The cutting part of the drill consists of a front and rear surface, two cutting edges, sharpened along both surfaces in the shape of a cone, with a bridge at 55 degrees between them. During operation, all cutting tools, including drills, must be kept in contact with the material used for their preparation, heat treatment and, in addition, the cutting edges are sharpened.

In industry, spiral drills are widely used. These drills have a diameter ranging from one tenth to eighty millimeters. The main parts of the drill are a single working part, a tapered or cylindrical shank (with which the drill is secured in the spindle or in the chuck) and legs, which play the role of a stop for turning the drill from the spindle.

The drills move differently as the spiral approaches. The less the drill spiral is twisted, the sharper the cutter will turn out. The job of sharpening such a drill is much simpler. Plus, such cutters vibrate much less.

When looking at the cross section of the cutter, you can notice that the largest diameter is at one point through which the cutting edge passes. Any other point of cut has a diameter smaller than that of a cob.

The wind flows that pass through the polyethylene grooves interfere with the heating of the cutter. Looking at the holes in the shape of the cylinder in which milling takes place, we notice the flow of wind, which cools the tool well. The cutting edge of the cutter is pressed against the surface so that only one point is formed, and the process does not matter anything. Dry currents also help remove chips that are being cut.

The cob of the robot will need a marker for marking. So, since we are cutting two spirals, we will mark one of the spirals with a marker so as not to miss when sharpening.

We drill and grind the second turn of the spiral, passing once. We cut off a piece of metal until we can create the profile we need. We stand in small streams, vibrating across the face. This operation must be carried out obliquely, both on one spiral and on the other. A cutter with a particularly flat part will not show good cutting power.

The work will be carried out on a benchtop bench, which is ideal for converting our drill into a milling cutter. During the process of sharpening the drill, we will need to trim it under the same coat. On this workbench we can work even more easily, in contrast to other machines, in which the cheeks are spread far beyond the stake. It is not possible to place the drill on them under the required cut to the disk.

Let's take a closer look at the cutting of the spiral grooves of the drill for the power tool. When we install a drill bit for cutting, we place it on the edge in such a way that our cutter sticks out at two points. Then we can be careful at which point of the spiral that is cut, a dot of stone is formed. When changing the cut to a thicker one, the cutting point will move to the cutting surface. It is not our fault to reach it without additional passages. It is necessary to loosen the drill under the yakom's sharp cut. When placed horizontally, the rear part will be cleaned.

The sharpening process follows the offensive scheme. Having pressed our drill with our finger, we move it back and forth several times. Since the edge becomes sharper when sharpened, you can hurt your fingers. So get ready in advance. You can protect your hand from wounds by first wrapping the drill bit around the finger, which you will use to press the plastic balls, with electrical tape. As an option for protection, use a thimble or something similar.

On the cob itself, we marked one of the grooves with a marker, leaving the other white, unmarked. Why did they squander it? In order to smoothly and accurately grind the spirals. We have sharpened an unfinished groove right away. Then we will also make a groove under the same shim, marking it with a black marker. From both sides of the metal you will know more precisely. After which we change the sharpening cut, and again sharpen the white groove, and behind it the black one, without changing the cut.

By wrapping the drill while sharpening it under the cutter, you will never be able to grind the cutting surface from the cob to the end. All cutting edges should be sharpened to suit. You don't need the entire robotic surface for the robot. When sharpened, the drill bit becomes smaller, and the cutter is cut insufficiently hard. About an hour into operation, the milling cutter begins to make noise and whistle. When the cutter is loosened, the material is removed during processing. The surfaces will be rough, and sometimes the material will be torn.

Once the cutter is cut, you can perform milling with a loss of 0.5-1 mm and the cut will be imperfect or even defective. So you won’t hesitate to trim the drill as much as possible throughout the entire day. When sharpening everything, you will have to cut 2-2.5 cm off the drill. Well, that's how it is. Prepare a container with water to cool the drill, so it will become very hot.

Well, let’s install the voice under a small shroud. This allows us to change the focus on a large range – from 0 to more. Sharpening begins at the white edge. The process begins approximately at the center of the visible face of the drill. On the stop, using a ruler or a marker, draw a line between which the cob line of the sharpened spiral of the drill is connected. Wrapping the drill, we sharpen it from the cob to the end with an additional stake under the sharpened spiral. We change the cut of the drill straight down or sideways against the stop and sharpen again all the edges that protrude.

Then we sharpen the working edge, not pressing it too hard until it stops. The material of the drill may not be removed. If the cutting edge itself is turned, then when the edge is turned, it is significant that chips appear not behind the cutter or under, but on the front surface. The drill is sharpened not throughout the entire length, but only in its middle part. Behind the additional marker there is a line in which the uniformly sharpened and not perfectly formed end of the drill is cut with a “grinder”.

After trimming, you need to bind the end of the cut new cutter. On the support there is firmly a small piece of wooden plank or plywood, cut under the cut. According to the new procedure, it is necessary to reshape the cutter during the hour of sharpening the two sharp ends. We press the cutter against the grain with one side, and then with the other, against the wood, sharpening the offence.

Every time in life, the skin master has had the opportunity to work with wood, and in the process of this process it was impossible not to exploit such a mechanism as milling cutters. And what’s more, with a large-scale vicoristan, it is immediately ineffective with a long-line vikoristan.

Constantly sharpening and servicing takes a lot of hours, and the grinding materials don’t last long, but they don’t stand well.

In order for the mother to be able to work with wood in the future, it is best for the novice mother to prepare cutters and related materials for the parts, such as knives, for example.

This article will tell you how to make wood cutters with your own hands.

Preparing the template

Stage 1. Painting.

The materials that may be needed at this stage may look like this. Using a ruler, you can paint over the knives, the fragments of stench are a direct reflection of a future milling cutter. Although they are not obvious, it is not a problem to find the example on the Internet, and then re-paint your profile and follow further instructions.

Stage 2. We create the shape.


It is important to know how many knives we need in the bag, we need to remove the necessary amount of leaflet and, by burying them, we carefully shape the shape of the future plant, without any fuss, neither two non-bearing sides of the knife.

Stage 3. Preparation of the form.


Using additional glue, we glue the template before preparing it and carefully cut it out with a grinder. Remember: it is important to save not just the side, but also the other sides! So, when working with an angle grinder, be careful and take care of the dimensions of the device.

Prepared virobu

Stage 1. Preparation before sharpening.


For this process we need a stone disk like the one in the photo. Who cares about letting new things on the right - you can distati already, so bi move. In addition, in the process you will have to slightly change the radius of the wheel, so that when working on a stationary platform, it will result in the vibration of the most required shape. For this purpose, “balls” are used, which will help to quickly bring the Kamiana wheel into the required shape.

Stage 2. Preparation of knives.


With this help, we create the form we need using the template. After the wheel became a necessary form (advance stage), work became much easier. Father: the virus has become a necessary form for us. What's next? Then we grind it to such a point that the metal becomes slightly bent in the middle - this itself serves as a signal that it is necessary to start the process.

Stage 3. Formation of the finished virobu.


Well, the final stage is molding. The knives that came out at the end of the advanced stages need to be inserted into the empty slots on the cutter. At this stage, it becomes clear that the proportion of sides at the front stages had to be achieved. Carefully insert the knives all the way to the cutter and voila! - The virus is ready before use, and waste is minimal.

If you follow the instructions carefully, the process of making knives for milling cutters will take no more than 15 minutes from the master. In addition, considering the minimum costs, you can no longer boast about “dullness”, or about those knives that are included in the set with the cutter, may not be suitable for use and serve shorter than expected.

The service life of these self-made knives may vary, but the statistics significantly outweigh the use of accessories that require constant sharpening and care during the work process.

Follow the pattern of the product, carefully follow the instructions and the axis - no more than through the day you will get your order clearly preparing the product for a minimal amount.

Video: DIY woodworking cutters.

Anyone who seriously works on wood will find it very early in the day that it will be impossible to cut out high-grade wood without milling. But for a decent milling machine from Butovo for cutting wood, it’s unlikely that you’ll get anything less than 20 thousand. rub. How can you pay off such expenses and how much? How many attachments will you need to get the most out of your milling operations? Maintaining such a diet is obviously extremely difficult and will never be possible. You can make a wood milling bench with your own hands. It is best to give the opportunity to clearly understand what you can do on the other level and what you can do on the new one. It is possible, and the need for a purchase will fall - a self-made one, prepared for oneself, will end up in the hands of fate. The material in this article may lead the reader to such a turn.

What is it timid?

To process materials, dozens of different milling operations and at least a dozen different types of machines for them are used. In home minds, not all of their designs are repeated by cob masters and middle hands. 2- and 3-axis CNC machining machines (2D and 3D wood milling machines) are not visible in this article. It is possible to create a 2D or 3D milling machine on your own (item 1 in the figure below), but you may still be able to achieve the great benefits of working on a simple bench, a significant obligation and the need for dramatically increased productivity. At the same time, you will have to master the programming of microcontrollers, because The letters are ready, painted on the verstat with a whole singing design; The greatest amount of money will also be spent on the motors and precision drive parts.

For the beginning, at home, you can prepare a self-made milling workbench, whatever the need. Varieties:

  • Horizontal (item 2 on small).
  • Vertical (item 3).
  • Flat-copy with pantograph (2D duplicate carver, item 4).
  • Verstat for volumetric copying (3D duplicating carver, item 5).

Tool…

The choice of the layout of these and other types is indicated, obviously, by the working operations of the master. To specify this nomenclature, it is necessary to first determine which working parts (cutters) you most need. Most of them are stuck in both horizontal and vertical planes.

It is important to trim with mounted cutters (item 1 in the figure). straight edges of the boards: cut the grooves and ridges (including the ridges) along the entire board, create a chamfer (shaped chamfer). The spindle assembly of the workbench under the milling cutter is structurally the simplest; yogo details of the building turn 3rd grade lathe. The required drive force for a cutting depth of 60 mm is 1.5 kW. The quality of the material is practical, starting from the raw material right behind the sawmills from the tartak. The greatest accessory for milling cutters is a vertical wood router, div. Below is a video in 4 parts:

Video: self-made milling machine for wood with mounted cutters


There are many more types of cutters with a cylindrical shank (planting, seating) because Their functional capabilities are wider. However, for such a milling cutter you will need to grind a spindle attachment with a Morse taper under a clamping chuck; It is also possible to freeze the finished spindle assemblies from the drilling bench.

eg Forstner cutter (item 2 in the figure) – a specialized tool; They are used to select round holes with a flat bottom in thin boards with decorative coatings, so that they cannot be scratched. Have you ever hung doors on furniture? The holes under their loops were selected using a Forstner cutter. The consistency of the material is not very harsh, like straight spherical wood of the 1st grade chamber drying. The power required for the drive is 150 W. Use end mills to cut only on a vertical bench or, by hand, by hand.

Note: Using a Forstner cutter in a 170 W screwdriver, it’s entirely possible to work the holes D32 under the door hinges in 16 mm furniture laminated chipboards.

Kintsev (finger) cutter, pos. 3, Both horizontal and vertical spindles can be threaded. Using end mills, select blind grooves (not the entire length of the board) and cut tenons for carpentry joints between tongue and groove. Use an end mill by hand on a horizontal bench. On a vertical basis, it is possible to select long grooves (grooves) of a rectangular profile on the faces of boards and beams. End mills (item 4) are also specialized tools for preparing parts before joining the dowel tail. Work with end end cutters only on a vertical bench. For these and other applications, the drive needs to operate at cutting depths of up to 80-100 mm per 1 kW. The quality of the material is from wood, 2nd grade, air-dried (from wood).

End shaped cutters, pos. 5, also specializations, but also required tools. Use them to guide the molding (including on curved edges) and select shaped grooves (decorative grooves) from the layers of boards of any configuration. Drive power 12-15 kW; Suitable for cutting materials such as those for end mills. To trim edges, the shaped cutter can be threaded either horizontally or vertically; for robots made of plastics only for vertical ones.

With roller cutters (burrs, item 6), you can also select shaped grooves and apply moulding, either on a horizontal or vertical workbench, or use a special tool for copy milling workbenches. The capacity of the material is high for end mills, but the power of the drive in the copier can be 250-300 W.

I, you decide, using a circular cutter (item 7) on a vertical milling or drilling machine, you can cut round openings of large diameter in any material that is not extremely thick (including sheet metal). The required tension for the drive on hole D200 for an oak panel with a thickness of 60 mm is approx. 2-2.5 kW.

… and yogo tribute

Milling can be done in two ways: indirectly and indirectly, div. rice. lower. When the wood is dry, then the original straight-ball wood (especially not very high-wood dried wood) is only milled along the way, otherwise the cutter can cause splitting and/or unraveling the workpiece. But in this case, with a high-speed feed speed, the smoothness of the workpiece being cut by the milling cutter and the processing profile were felt. It is difficult to remove the saw and shavings from the working area (and this is a serious problem) on a vertical milling bench when milling along the way, because The cutter (div. further) has to be placed in the field of view in front of the cutter and enters the working area.

Note: On a horizontal milling bench, there are no problems with remote machining exits during down-milling, because saw (thyrsa) then fly down, and the pipe of the saw blade can be spread directly on the bench plate (div. item 2 in the figure on the cob and further).

Sharp milling gives better precision and cleanliness of cutting, but only on clear and uniform materials. In the villages there is a chamber drying plant on a solid, granular-shaped village. You can see the long way out of cutting on a vertical milling bench, which makes it easier, but on a horizontal one it’s difficult to saw and fly uphill. Cutting the workpiece is almost impossible, but it is not safe to use a milling cutter. The behavior profile can often be further developed; bitten and broken, preparing a crazy whore.

Motor

Coming from a built-in machine, the milling workbench with a metal hand works optimally with a drive of 1.5-2 kW. The reason is that the movements are released to such an extent, incl. asynchronous with capacitor starting at a voltage of 220-50 Hz. You can turn it on at the original power socket, and the direct connection is a child's play for an amateur electrician; Wrapping speed – 700-2850 rpm, which is suitable for milling. It is possible to use an electric motor of the same type as a washing machine; In this case, there is a possibility of over-mixing the winding winding (in asynchronous motors there is a control panel for different windings). A 2 kW engine ensures cutting depth up to 80-100 mm; If the need is great, you will have to install a three-phase motor at 380 50 Hz, 3 kW, div. video clip:

Video: self-made vertical milling bench for wood

Note: a commutator electric motor of 1.5-2 kW 220 V 50/60 Hz (for example, another used or a saw cleaner) for the drive of a milling tool has little value - due to their extremely soft external characteristics of the milling cutter with imperfect If you manually feed the workpiece, it may get stuck in the wood yogo (yaksho siruvate).

What a better wood router

Now we know enough to select the horizontal and vertical rotation of the axis of the spindle wrapper of the workbench. The regular operational characteristics of horizontal and vertical milling benches for wood are given in the table.

Horizontal or vertical?

From the data table. It follows that a horizontal wood router can work independently, since you are faced with the need for bulk, uncomplicated processing of lumber from low-grade wood. Not obov'yazkovo on sales; Perhaps, for covering your booth with wooden siding or clapboard. The savings are such that you can buy a branded milling cutter, but a normal forgetter will not have pennies. Or, let’s say, still for sales, since you are an individual entrepreneur with a sawmill and a circular saw. Equalize market prices for uncut and tongue-and-groove boards, improve profitability - what's the difference?

The parts for the foldable module of a horizontal wood router - the spindle assembly - can be assembled with any kind of lathe in the same way as for the same assembly of a circular saw; Structurally, however, they stink (the armchair of the divan in the figure; the forged bearings are visible in red).

The stand, lumber and base plate are the same as for the vertical workbench (div. distance). The plate is simpler - there is no need for a visor to support the engine with vibration dampers. The vibration level of a horizontal router is significantly less than that of a vertical router. The transmission from the motor to the spindle also changes them, and the pulleys or gears for it can be found at your motorcycle dealer or at a salvage market. On a completely decent horizontal milling bench for wood, you can process a ready-made circular saw, div. video:

Video: milling bench with circular saw / jointing bench

Robimo vertical

A vertical milling bench for wood has many greater functional capabilities and ensures smooth processing of materials, even less horizontal ones. The vertical routers themselves will be the most self-made enthusiasts. However, the problem of combating vibrations with a vertical milling bench is much more serious. In a horizontal router, vibrations through the base of the spindle assembly are extremely important. down and effectively dampen, interfering with the same material, then on a vertical bench the springs in the bench plate widen mainly to the sides. In this case, it is possible that there may be an interference and the appearance of standing forks with antinodes (foci) of such a size that the workpiece is thrown out of the cutter. Therefore, one of the main tasks in the design of a self-propelled vertical router is to suppress the vibration of the workbench.

Structural diagram

The least vibration-resistant vertical milling machine with a bottom drive of a free-wheeling cutter (fixed at the bottom). The working part is mounted directly on the motor shaft. The entire drive is designed to be as vibration-resistant as possible. Under the influx of the cutter bit on the inhomogeneities of the workpiece, the result is hit and fits. In this case, in the springs there is a marked transverse (vertical) warehouse, which effectively sands the bed, and an important motor with a massive rotor that turns quickly, plays the role of an inertial sander for mechanical grinding.

The installation of industrial and self-made home vertical milling machines for wood is shown in Fig.

Their main function is in the hinged (lifting) stop 7. The fragments in amateur designs of 5 kW drives and more with high-productivity cutters will not stagnate, the hinged stop is replaced with a lifting one to ensure It presses the workpiece uphill from the cutter. Also, for an amateur drilling machine, an adapter attachment with a Morse taper is applied to the motor shaft in the same way as for a self-made drilling machine. A standard chuck with a cylindrical shank is installed on the cone. This design also has the option of mounting cutters: adapters to them with a cylindrical shank are available for sale or are included with the set of cutters. The most common structural components of such a layout:

  1. The base plate is the main damper of the later (horizontal) springs at the bench;
  2. The drive board is vibrated;
  3. The comb parts of the stop are to dampen vertical vibrations of the workpiece;
  4. A static side stop ensures the correct feeding of the workpiece, and in a self-made workbench it regulates the cutter output (horizontal depth of cutting);
  5. Saw catcher - to bring the waste material into the saw catcher.

It is necessary to remain during milling, because wood saw, thyrsion and shavings, the milling cutter gives many times more, less smoothness when sawing. The base plate is most often mounted together with the vibration damping suspension of the drive. The pedestal (bed) may have been like that, but the slab with the mouth of the parts did not fall down.

Plate and drive suspension

The window (slot) for suspending the drive from the bench plate is most often made square (div. Fig. right-handed), so it’s simpler at home. Ale versat in the robotic tremtime is much smaller, as it is possible for the viconati drive to be round. In any case, the motor is not to blame for the plates sticking out of the middle (again, amazingly small. Right-handed), otherwise, instead of damping the vibration, it will become stronger.

The best materials for the plate and drive plate are fiber-ball plastics: textolite, sklotextolite for fabrics with a diameter of 12-15 mm; The better for each other. Hardboard and bulky plastics are less suitable: they are better at dampening vibrations, otherwise they warp when heated by the motor and the machine tool loses accuracy. Getinaks and thermosetting spherical plastics are unpleasant: the stench from vibration will quickly dissolve.

However, working the entire slab as a whole is both impossible and ineffective: it is difficult, expensive, and the vibrations of the drive itself are transmitted to the slab without distortion. It is necessary to make only a motor board from plastic, and a plate from seeped vibro-clay warehouse and glued plywood, and low-grade material and packaging will do. It is necessary to re-glue the slab with at least 5 sheets so that the fibers of the outer vessel balls are oriented mutually perpendicular.

The diagram for cutting a standard sheet of plywood 1550x1550x4 mm onto a sheet for the base plate of a wood milling machine is shown in Fig. The sheets for the plate of the horizontal router are cut without windows under the motor, but with the pipe of the sawmill (amazingly and far). Slab size up to 750x500 mm. A 50 mm ball along the contour of the sheet is required to remove the unclear material along the edges.

Apply a mild eco-soil (water-polymer emulsion) to the leaf surface 2-3 times from the skin side, so as to dampen vibrations. The interval between leaks is at least 3.5 years. Then open the sheet and spread plastic sheeting on the underside (not PVC, it will stick!). Place sheet No. 1 on the float and with a pencil (or rather, “curdle” it with a paint roller) apply it to a new thin smooth ball of mounting (strengthened) PVA; This very same ball is on the side of the arch No. 2. After applying the glue, carefully throw the pen (roller and tray) in a bucket of water, and after finishing all the gluing, rinse it in water.

Before folding, wrap the sheets for 15-20 minutes (or follow the instructions on the packaging with glue), fold and straighten them without moving apart, so that the edges of the drive window fit exactly. Then just glue sheets Nos. 3, 4 and 5. The whole package is covered with melting cloth and spread over the entire area with pinkish-colored material weighing 30-40 kg (most likely, add more books or magazine binders). Dry for at least 3 minutes at room temperature: the mounting PVA is soft, its glue ball is viscous and vibrates, and then dries to a soft consistency.

The design of the engine suspension is shown in a right-handed view in Fig. Between the motor plate and the bench plate it is necessary to close a gap of 0.5-1 mm. There is no need to clean this thyrsa: the stench will be an additional drum pillow for the vibration extinguisher. The motor should be pressed with paws that protrude beyond the dimensions of the body: then it will be possible to install (not quickly) the cutter mount. To install the milling cutter at the height of the engine mounting screws, take long ones, and place the screw itself, pressing on them, between the gum suspension cushion and the engine body, steel washers through the gaskets from the same chamber. ї autogumi.

The suspended slab is checked for a container made by Olivet. If you place the washers 5 cm above the edge of the hanger plate, then when the engine is on at idle, the blanket is not liable to fall.

Upor i pilovlovlyuvach

The chair is the simplest, but a good static butt stop with a pipe of a saw-and-earth diva. to the next Small Material: re-glued plywood from the same sheet. The openings under the comb and lifting stops are drilled in 3-5 pieces: the first 50 mm from the edges of the cutter under the cutter (straight cut); reshta after 25-30 mm. The positions of the stops are selected according to the dimensions of the workpiece and the material. The length of the cutter in small intervals is adjusted by turning the stop and securing it with a clamp.

Saw-collector

There are no fragments of the industrial pneumatic system from the collection of the wind in the house; the milling saw must be removed with a household saw cleaner. If you connect it directly to the pipe of the saw, the required expensive household equipment will soon go well. Dear, it’s good to clean the vacuum cleaner with a hydraulic catcher, it’s better for everything, it’s great. So, in addition to a sawmill, you also need a sawmill, through which the saw cleaner is connected.

The installation of the saw blade for the milling workbench is shown in Fig. right-handed Capacity - around 10-15 l (more than 20 l). The ideal option is a household bucket with a thick lid, placed on a slit and with caps (otherwise made entirely with your own hands).

Inlet pipe – diameter bl. 20 mm (in the middle). The end of the bevels is 45 degrees and rotated 20-30 degrees; is installed 15-20 mm from the side of the vessel (importantly from the outer edge of the pipe). The exhaust pipe is wide, approx. 30 mm center; is installed exactly in the vertical axis of the container. The maximum end of sound is up to 15-20 mm (taper is not critical). Everything works at once like a cyclone, and when you put it in the vacuum cleaner you go clean, so as not to seal the tool.

Note: additional sawmill operation - drank from a new type of ash wood putty. For her, the drink is mixed with PVA (3-4): 1 for duty.

Hrebinka

The position of the comb stop of the wood milling bench is given below. Small Material – solid spring wood (oak, beech, pea) without defects – twists, rot, slants, knots – thickness 20 mm. The scallop requires a pair, right and left, so that the preparation can be served on either side.

The first comb tooth along the way was shortened by 3 mm (remember!). It does not directly contact the workpiece, but serves as a spring for the entire comb. Without it, the comb may become pinched or break.

Fastening the combs to the side stop - with a bolt with a nut-ram along the side groove (long hole in the figure); fixing the non-working screw with a self-tapping screw to another stop through hole D7. In the working position, place the comb in such a way that all the teeth, except the first one, are pressed together and fixed with the ram.

Robimo copy router

The wood copying of the milled workpiece on the right is even thinner. The principle of 2- and 3-coordinate (2D and 3D) copying is the same: use a copier probe to trace the contour of a flat image (template) or move it along the volumetric surface. The cutter of the head that mills exactly repeats the handles of the probe, removing the wood from the workpiece. You need to move the probe carefully and not hastily, sensitively feeling the support of the material: the workpiece will not be repeated. Start mastering wood copying better than in 2D. With this method, you can make a lot of money: flat decorative parts with a mold placed on a vertical milling cutter are crushed with a hot pot, and they end up with a lot of heat. Either for 2D or 3D copying, you need a special head for milling.

Head

Copy heads that are milled are hardened and sold, but they are expensive to construct. You can replace the branded head with a drill without an impact mechanism: “safe” drills cannot be copied due to the design features of the spindle assembly. To get started, use either a drill or a screwdriver, or rather, a high-precision tool. Such a drill is expensive for the most expensive, but much cheaper for the milling head, but the robot does not compromise on the core. You can recognize an accurate drill simply by looking at it: on its body there is a metal plate for installation in the frame of the drilling bench under the drill.

2D

For 2D copying on wood, a workbench with a pantograph, table-top or wall-mounted, is used. It is easier to make a tabletop pantograph with your own hands, but copying accuracy better than 1 mm will be important. On a pantograph typesetting you can literally paint and remove autographs from the workpiece.

The device for 2D copying and milling machines for wood is shown in Fig.: tabletop; right-handed with a hanging pantograph. The remaining one is essentially an engraving workbench. A probe here and there with a tip radius of approx. 0.5 mm (for gravel up to 0.1 mm or less). Culkov cutter is final; By installing it on a different screw in the head cartridge, the width and depth of the groove that is selected are adjusted.

What is the required scale?

Paintings and armchair pantographs should be scaled (magnificent figure). The copy on wood is vibrated at a scale of 1:1. On the right, because of the support of the material, the damage to wood copying increases greatly due to the play at the hinges; professional engraving workbench - a folding, precision, expensive unit. However, if a copy pantograph is adjusted to a scale of 1:1, one must beware of this phenomenon: the battle in the hinges must be compensated for by one, and the hidden loss through the backlash increases insignificantly.

3D

3-axis milling and copying machines (duplicate machines) can be actively sold on the tool market, regardless of high prices. On a double-carver, you can work behind the volumetric image (not made of wood; for example, behind the sticky one) of copies, which, in the eyes of the average person, do not compromise the artistic merits of the original.

The installation of a factory double carver is shown in Fig. This copier (mill + probe) has 4 steps of freedom: move up and down, back and forth, rotate at a vertical plane, move left and right. It would be possible to get by without a “separate” level of freedom, equal to the number of geometrical figures that are being copied, if the copier’s movement along all three axes were rectilinear (as with CNC machines), otherwise It is technically difficult and expensive. The same steps of freedom can be implemented in a different kinematic scheme, which is the case with most self-propelled duplicate carriers (at the center in the figure).

Advanced copying machines work with a cylindrical probe and a roller cutter. The template should then be traced with the edge of the probe (the ring edge of its lower end); work appears and accordingly. cutter edge. I will prepare the design and secure it on absolutely new supports. In this process, the robot has to be placed on its side and turned over with its feet, immediately fixing the supports in the precisely designated position. In this way, it is possible to accurately copy the figure of folding as in Fig.

It is easier for copiers to read the right-handed ones on smaller folding images, the stagnant spherical probes and the roller cutter, right-handed in Fig. The probe needs to be sharpened for cleaning. Micron precision is not required; Instead of the sphere, there may be specks hanging on the end of the probe. Otherwise, the tip of the probe needs to be sanded at home with fine sandpaper and polished throughout either with alcohol or GOI paste. The diameter of the cutter is taken to be equal to the diameter of the tip of the probe, otherwise the contours of the left-handed and right-handed (shown at the bottom) will not meet. The probe handle is also beautifully turned from pear-shaped wood; a twist probe with a ribbed plastic handle, the “giving” to the material feels much harder.

Pomilki at the design

There are three main benefits to the designs of self-contained double carvers. Persha – lack of importance to the mechanism. The copier between the working area is liable to easily move and lock out of these positions, in which it is deprived. The other is a copier on a stand instead of a U-like frame, pos. And in Fig. The rigidity of torsion of the rod is an order of magnitude less, lower frame; resp. copying is growing and stealing. The third is a “hanging” horizontal copier rod, pos. B; This indicates a lack of stiffness from the end of the barbell to the end.

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